Between Two Worlds: The Changpas' Journey from Nomadic Life to Sedentarization

• After many trips to Changtang in the spring of 2024, I finally decided to visit Kharnakling. This district of the town of Choglamsar where nomads have decided to settle in aim of better living conditions. In the face of a rapidly changing world, there are very few places left where we can feel the in-between, the intersection between the modern world and ancient traditions, a bend of past and future, and it didn’t take me long to realize that this urban-settlement was one of those places.

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  As I wandered the market streets at the end of the day, the time when Changpas children who had come to study in the city returned home with their blue uniforms and backpacks, that mothers crowded into small stores to pay for the night provision and that elderly men pass on walking and praying with a mani chuskor, a Tibetan prayer wheel, I felt an obvious harmony between these two realities. It's fascinating to observe the adaptability of humans and how they can strike a balance between different ways of life. Even though the Changpas have a deep connection to their land and animals, they have embraced the opportunities provided by urban living. 
  
  I remembered a conversation last weekend with a 21-year-old woman who had come to visit her pastoralism nomadic parents in Samad « I like coming back to the village, being in nature and wide open spaces. In the city, there's a lot of noise, it's polluted and everyone's too busy looking after themselves. But I wanted to study sociology, get a government job and be with my friends so I moved at 18 years old. Here, everything is accessible and the nomadic life is really difficult. » And from my comfortable Western perspective, I can only understand her choice. In Changthang, there is little connection to the outside world, the winters are brutally cold, and self-sufficiency is a necessity – producing everything from milk and cheese to clothing and shelter in order to survive. Kharnakling, on the other hand, offers security and accessibility to essential services like education and healthcare. But as I distanced myself from the market and found myself wandering deeper into bustling streets, where the new sedentary lifestyle of over 50% of the Changpa nomads was becoming more prevalent, my perception of urban life deepened. A lady in her late fifties passed by with a plastic bag full of chips and Sprite. Two-year-olds played in the garbage with lollipops in their mouths. A group of five men were drinking chai in silence, all engrossed in their cell phones. Mothers were preparing Maggi Masala, instant noodles, for dinner, and teenagers were hydrating with Coke during their basketball game. Some might argue that I'm idealizing an old way of life,but I can't help but question whether these indigenous people are benefiting or losing out due to this shift towards urbanization. Are they abandoning unprocessed foods to relocate nearer to health centers and consume more junk food? Do children attend school solely to spend 8 hours a day in front of a screen instead of making a living outdoors? Are they losing their sense of community to be glued to screens with strangers? It is clear that while modernization can bring certain benefits, it often comes with significant trade-offs that can profoundly affect the next generation.
  
  I get the impression that individuals born into affluent socio-economic conditions in developed countries, like those in the Global North, often don't fully grasp the complexities behind their economic comfort. However, there is hope for communities that straddle the line between traditional living and modern influences to lead the way. By recognizing the strengths of their cultural heritage and selectively embracing modern conveniences, these communities can forge a hybrid lifestyle that honors their ancestral wisdom while benefiting from contemporary advancements.